International fragrance houses look to Middle East as inspiration for global perfume trends
Latest olfactory creations on show at Beautyworld Middle East 2018 with global players eyeing US$8.5 billion regional fragrance market
Dubai, UAE, March 07, 2018: The world’s leading fragrance creation houses are taking inspiration from the Middle East to produce their latest perfumes, using the region’s rich history and passion for fine fragrances to reveal potential future trends in global markets.
Creasens from Italy, which specialises in joining perfumery with tradition, research, and creativity, set up its Creasens Atelier Parfums base in the UAE in 2013 to be closer to its favoured customers, and has since used the creative centre as a global innovation hub.
Eurofragance too in 2015 invested US$2.7 million in a 10,000 sqft Creative Centre in Dubai Science Park. Used predominantly to create perfume samples based on regional preferences, the olfactory laboratory has been the catalyst of global growth for the Spanish-based company.
Robertet Group from France and Swiss company Firmenich are other examples of world’s most well-known fragrance and flavour businesses to establish a physical presence in the Middle East, using the region as an incubator of new ideas and trendsetting perfume creations.
These latest creations and fragrance compounds will be launched at the upcoming Beautyworld Middle East 2018 exhibition in Dubai, where the four companies are among more than 210 exhibitors at the show’s dedicated Fragrance Compound and Finished Fragrance section.
Fragrance Compounds and Finished Fragrance is one of six product groups at the three-day event, and features the world’s top 18 global fragrance creation houses.
Fragrance Compounds and Finished Fragrance is one of six product groups at the three-day event, and features 15 of the world’s top 18 global fragrance creation houses including Givaudan, Firmenich, International Flavors & Fragrances (IFF), Mane, Robertet, CPL Aromas, Iberchem, Eurofragance, MG Gulcicek, Sensient, Cosmo International Fragrances, Expressions Parfumees, Technico Flor, Parfex, and Luzi.
All will present their latest creations eager to a regional audience where fragrances continue to be close to the heart. According to analysts Euromonitor International (EMI), the retail value of the Middle East and African fragrance market is expected to reach US$8.5 billion by 2021, up from the US$6.1 billion level of 2017, maintaining a healthy compound annual growth rate of eight percent.
In the Gulf Cooperation Council (GCC), consumers spent US$3 billion on fragrances last year, with Saudi Arabia (US$1.8 billion), and the UAE (US$674 million), the two big spenders. The market here will continue its steep rise over the next four years according to EMI, with the GCC’s retail value of fragrances estimated to be worth US$3.6 billion in 2021, of which US$2.1 billion will be attributed to Saudi, and US$807 million to the UAE.
Ahmed Pauwels, CEO of Messe Frankfurt Middle East, the organiser of Beautyworld Middle East, said: “Fragrances have always been an integral part of Middle East traditions and heritage, and this continues today with consumers being very knowledgeable and selective about the kind of fragrances they’re looking for.
“With the global expansion of perfumes, many countries have converted to the idea and culture of wearing perfumes, but the UAE and wider Middle East for many years already had this culture, which is why it’s such a big market and trend-setter now, similar to France, Italy, the UK, or Germany.”
Marco Genovese, Creasens Group General Manager, said: “The Middle East and Africa is a meeting point of different cultures, from where Creasens takes inspiration for creating new fragrances.
“In this way we’re also able to anticipate trends in Europe or even reveal in advance new trends in European markets. In our opinion, the perfume trends for 2018 regarding the oriental olfactive family in particular is the creation of ‘twist’ perfumes.
“We can use the Arabian name Mukhallat that is a common word used in Arabian perfumery,” added Genovese. “It’s often used to describe a certain type of perfume oil and literally means mixture. A Mukhallat is usually a mixture of pure oils such as Dehn Al Oudh, Rose, Musk, Sandalwood, and Amber that are combined to create a perfume oil.”
Genovese said Creasens has spread its ‘Made in Italy’ brand all over the world thanks to its Dubai branch, which has been key for African, Asiatic and Arabian markets: “Creasens Atelier Parfums in Dubai is an olfactive hub where the global trends in perfumes can be observed,” he added. “We’re taking part in Beautyworld Middle East 2018 to reach potential customers, but also to analyse what our competitors are doing, and to becoming aware of future fragrance trends.”
With an annual turnover of 3.34 billion Swiss Francs at end June 2017, Firmenich is another fragrance force at Beautyworld Middle East, which opens for the 23rd time from 8-10 May 2018 at the Dubai International Convention and Exhibition Centre.
Ian Crompton, Fine Fragrance Director of Firmenich in the Middle East, said: “The Middle East and Africa are key markets for Firmenich as they’re fast-growing economies and are constantly evolving. To add, the local culture has always embraced fragrance lovers as they have been exposed to perfume from a very young age.”
Crompton said layering has been reinvented as far as regional trends are concerned, earning a special place in international perfumery: “In terms of fragrance launches, the last years were a wave of gourmands,” he added.
“This year seems to be more about finding a new kind of addiction, focusing on finding new sensuality. Modernised white florals like in Gucci Bloom are quite trendy at the moment also.
”Crompton said layering has been reinvented more than ever as far as regional trends are concerned, earning a special place in international perfumery: “In terms of fragrance launches, the last years were a wave of gourmands like YSL Black Opium, Lancôme La Vie est Belle, YSL Mon Paris and more recently Jean Paul Gaultier Scandal,” he added.
“This year seems to be more about finding a new kind of addiction, focusing on finding the sensuality in simple things like skin. Modernised white florals like in Gucci Bloom are quite trendy at the moment also, especially in this region due to its heady aroma.”
Beautyworld Middle East is the region’s largest international trade fair for beauty products, hair, fragrances, and wellbeing, and will feature more than 1,600 exhibitors from 60 countries this year.
The other five key product groups at Beautyworld Middle East cover Hair, Nails & Salon Supplies, Cosmetics & Skincare, Machinery, Packaging, Raw Materials & Contract Manufacturing, Personal Care & Hygiene, and for the first time in 2018, Natural and Organic.
The dedicated beauty showcase will return with inspirational highlights that draw in thousands of beauty professionals every year, such as the Battle of the Barbers, Nail It! By OPI, Quintessence – the art of perfume, the Trend Forum, the Business in Beauty Summit, and Centre Stage by Nazih Group - a three-day educational showcase highlighting the latest trends and developments in the beauty industry. More information is available at: www.beautyworldme.com.
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